Posts for 'Whats In' Category

The notion of wardrobe androgyny was the fitting theme of Yves Saint-Laurent's men's collection, the house that kicked off the just-ended Paris men's shows where men's fashion won a feminine touch.

At YSL, designer Stefano Pilati used quotations from Plato to explain why he combined female detailing with a masculine silhouette.

"The original human nature was not like the present ... the sexes were not two as they are now."

Pilati underscored the union of genders with a line for men made in fabrics normally worn by women crepe de chine, organza, shantung and silk voile, all fabrics which float rather than fall.

In an era obsessed with global warming and sustainable development, the 44 spring/summer 2009 collections displayed at the four-day men's fashion shows ending Sunday featured light airy see-through linens, silks and soft feathery cottons.

Bright colours, more often the domain of women's wear, also figured strong.

As Gay Pride marches took place across Europe, pink was popular in Paris.

Louis Vuitton, a house with a predominantly masculine view of the world, chose pink for shorts, pants and waistcoat, and even shoes.

A huge pink sail served as the backdrop for an otherwise frankly male take on fashion from Emmanuel Ungaro designer Franck Boclet, who said fuschia was simply one of the house's signature colours.

"I wanted a gay fresh style," Boclet said of what he told AFP was "a Paris 60s look" of hip-hugging tight-thighed pants, chequered suits, and the odd item in day-glo orange, bright blue or purple.

Making his menswear debut for Givenchy, the house women's designer Ricardo Tisci too went for shocking pink, throwing out a suit with socks, shirt and shoes in pink in a gothic-cum-romantic collection mingling masculine and feminine lace shirts over tattooed skin, kinky leather shorts worn with cropped leggings.

At the house of Lanvin, designer Lucas Ossendrijver won a standing ovation from hundreds of fashionistas in Paris' ethnological museum for light-looking, almost insubstantial suits that seemed crumpled all over.

At Dior, one of the most breathlessly-awaited shows, Belgian designer Kris Van Asche broke with the brand's iconic black, splashing deep gold, cobalt blue, fuschia and day-glo orange, shown on a gravel runway running between a line of tall trees.

His masculine touch saw the return of the leg-hugging straight pants first designed by his style-setting predecessor Hedi Slimane, as well as harsh laser-slashing in shirts and jackets, and minimalist small collars and tiny lapels.

For his own epynomous collection, Kris Van Asche too went for feminine detailing, with suits made in the light cottons normally used for shirts.

Some of the smaller more outlandish designers went further in blurring gender codes in fashion.

A newcomer to the Paris scene, Japanese designer Tatsuro Horikawa and his Julius brand put his very-manly men in biker boots, aviator hats and adventurer-style pants, while adding almost dress-length tunics and see-through shirts.

His models strutted the catwalk with long shawls rolled around shoulders and veil-like shawls draped over their heads. See-through shirts showed a black band around the chest, almost like a women's bra.

Gaspard Yurkievich, a favourite with the trendy Paris set, said he aimed "to reintegrate feminine elements in the male wardrobe." The result was a bouffant tunic worn over trousers and short jackets with lots of trim that resembled that womens-wear classic, the little Chanel suit.

Most ultra-daring were Romain Kremer with men in long transparent dresses in fluorescent shades, and Bernhard Willhelm with an unwearable medieval-style collection featuring long-haired men in tiaras and multi-coloured bloomers.

John Galliano, in typically provocative vein, offered kilts worn over bright leggings, another staple of the Paris shows.

Paris men's fashion saw fewer adolescent, waif-like androgynous types strutting the catwalks, with big names such as Louis Vuitton, Dior and Jean Paul Gaultier opting for models who looked like grown men of at least 20.

And taking a stand against society's anti-ageism streak, Japan's Yohji Yamamoto and Belgium's Ann Demeulemeester chose to show men could grow old gracefully, throwing well over 60-somethings on the catwalks.

“FASHION needs to generate dreams,” Roberto Cavalli said before his show here on Sunday. Figuring in the dreams of the always optimistic Mr. Cavalli this season, according to his show notes, was an “extravagant man who explores, a hippie, a nomad who wears his memories from safari on himself.”

The designer then went on to further list his inspirations: “Africa’s savage and sublime atmosphere, Magnificent colors of Morocco, Paul Bowles’ Berber fascination in ‘The Sheltering Sky,’ Devendra Banhart’s neo-hippy bohemian attitude.”

Fashion, in one’s experience of it lately, generates many things, but dreams ... not so much. Certainly it is a reliable source of amusement, particularly when you consider the gap between what is going on in designers’ minds and how that translates to what men wear. Pajamas, for instance, were seen all over the runways in the collections for spring and summer 2009, shown here through Wednesday.

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The fashion world appears to have a new darling. Immediately after Michelle Obama mentioned on "The View" yesterday that she bought her striking sundress at White House/Black Market, women started pouring into the retail chain's stores, clamoring for the $148 dress.

"Women literally were snatching it up," says Jessica Wells, a spokeswoman for the company, which has 322 stores across the country. White House/Black Market did not have sales numbers on the cotton-blend dress, which was only available in stores, but did say that it sold out at some locations.

While the country is waiting to see what long-term political impact Democratic candidate Barack Obama will have, the verdict already appears to be in on the influence his wife will have on style.

Tall, poised and elegant, Ms. Obama is emerging as a new high-profile clotheshorse upon which designers and retailers are pinning their hopes. While the word "Camelot" has been bandied about when discussing the sartorial projections of Ms. Obama fueled in part by the 1950s flip hairdo that she sometimes favors her style sensibility is expected to have broad appeal.

"I'd put her in an Oprah sphere" in terms of influence, says Tom Julian, president of the Tom Julian Group, a New York City-based brand consultancy, who predicts this is just the beginning of Mrs. Obama's ability to drive sales because of her broad appeal. "She's modern a boomer, woman of color with a real shape and a real mind. This potential First Wife can forge ahead with a Midwest sense coupled with a dynamic personality."
Indeed, the 44-year-old Princeton- and Harvard-educated lawyer represents and has much of what many women admire: her own impressive resume, confidence, and, perhaps just as important, a real woman's body (unlike recent celebrity style icons such as the lithe Sarah Jessica Parker). Her clothes seem carefully chosen to show that she is in shape without projecting an inaccessible skinniness.

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The "fashion police" were on alert on Thursday for Royal Ascot's Ladies Day to ensure no mini-skirts or bare midriffs marred the hallowed turf of the exclusive Royal Enclosure.

For officials at one of the world's most elegant race meetings are cracking the sartorial whip after veteran racegoers complained that standards were slipping.

So the Duke of Devonshire, chairman of the course where Queen Elizabeth plays host for the five-day meeting, has issued firm fashion instructions to stamp out errant dressers.

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The spotlight is always on them. Like the Hollywood glitterati, the Mumbai film fraternity is forever trying to achieve that perfect look on the red carpet. Will hemlines rise? Will necklines plunge?

Will empire waistlines rule? Is volume out? Living under the style microscope and being scrutinised for every move and slip, is no mean feat. While Aishwarya Rai Bachchan has been the one Bollywood celeb who has been attacked in print for all her ‘wardrobe’ goof-ups on the red carpet of Cannes Film Festivals year after year, colleague Preity Zinta has wooed critics with her impeccable dressing style at global film festivals, even being voted Best Dressed Celebrity at the Toronto Film Festival 2007, beating actors Angelina Jolie and Cate Blanchett. Saif Ali Khan for example, defined a new metrosexual style altogether when he flaunted pink and purple shirts and tees on screen and off it. Bollywood’s other clotheshorses include Sanjay Dutt, Arjun Rampal and hotties Katrina Kaif and Bipasha Basu.

TOI asked fashion gurus to handpick and nominate the best dressed people in the glam biz. Says fashion designer Ritu Kumar, “I think a good wardrobe is all about confidence. It does not matter whether you are wearing a bikini, a gown or a handloom saree. I think Aishwarya Rai Bachchan is well turned out now, whether it’s at the Cannes red carpet or a temple visit! Shabana Azmi has her trademark style, Rekha is the perfect glamourous diva and Priyanka Chopra is getting the ‘I am hot and happening look’. Even a Sonia Gandhi’s wardrobe is well turned out. Among men, my vote goes to P Chidambaram for his individualistic style.”

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Following WAG-in-chief Coleen McLoughlin's marriage to Wayne Rooney on the Italian Riviera in the past week, one thing is guaranteed: the London fashion pack, claws sharpened, will launch their assassination of the predominantly Northern wedding party the minute their photos are revealed in a celebrity magazine this week.

For all her self-learned style and girl-next-door prettiness, there's one thing that fashionistas just can't forgive.

Coleen is from Liverpool; and that's North of the Watford Gap.

Cue catty sniggers from Team Moss in London, who believe that style exists only in the capital and means grubby Ugg boots worn with boho dresses.

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HARTAMAS Shopping Centre had its inaugural opening night at the ground floor with a dazzling display of fashion indulgence from its in-house tenants recently.

Themed ‘Stylish Silhouettes’, it showcased the latest trends and hottest collections that shoppers could get while shopping at its grounds.

Bisbee took to the catwalk with an assortment of candy-coloured dresses and fashion apparel while OWL featured office and casual wear.

Branded sunglasses were the top of the list for Optique, Eyeworks while Pink Jambu Home threw in a collection of casual and formal batik wear.

For a more feminine look, Tessuto’s line-up showcased detailing like embroidery and beading paired with lace and French fabrics.

The beauty of kebaya was seen in Elisa’s Collection as models gracefully walked the style of the past that is still worn by today’s modern women .

HOOHA Activewear featured attractive outfits for yoga, gym, aerobics, tennis and also leisure couture for the outdoors with brands from Australia such as Bella Bustiere, Rockwear, Running Bear and Smac.

Home furnishing collections from Terry Palmer were also part of the showcase.

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A woman goes shopping with a green bag in Beijing. The "environmentally-friendly" shopping bags are popping up everywhere in Beijing - from small shops to luxurious shopping malls.

"I'm not green, but I could be," reads one. Others have similar messages printed on them, "My Bag", "Use Me and Re-use Me".

Since the Chinese government issued its June 1 ban on free plastic bag handouts, retailers in China have found themselves in the midst of a "green" phenomenon.

They're anxious to turn fashion-conscious customers into eco-aware shoppers.

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Mahesh Bhatt’s film on Neeraj Grover’s murder

The investigation in this murder case is still on but the Bhatts don’t believe in letting grass grow under their feet. Mahesh Bhatt has already planned a film on the Neeraj Grover murder case. Neeraj was murdered by the fiance of Maria Susairaj, an aspiring actress. The couple then cut up Neeraj’s body and set it afire. Says Mahesh, “We are talking about young India and not about middle-aged stories of crimes of passion. It is difficult to understand a young India that has woken up to such brutalities. It takes a lot to find out what’s going on in their minds,” he says.

Agrees Shagufta Rafique, the film’s scriptwriter, “This film is not going to be about Neeraj alone. It is about exploring young minds. Youngsters move away from their parents and start living on their own. Parents keep thinking that their kids are doing well but the fact is that there is nobody with them in their lonely phases. This case is especially interesting as educated, successful youngsters are involved here.”

Prabhakar Shukla’s film on the Scarlett case

The whole country was shocked when Scarlett Keeling, a British teenager, was raped and killed in the sun ’n’ surf land – Goa. A botched-up investigation later, the news made it to headlines all across the world. And now filmmaker Prabhakar Shukla is all set to retell the story. Shukla says, “Police investigations, meeting the victim’s immediate family, dealing with their initial reservations doesn’t come really easy. I am going to the UK in June to meet Scarlett’s mother Fiona MacKeown. I know that she is worried and doesn’t want any misrepresentations of her daughter’s life in the film and I’m going to convince her. Such a film is quite a challenge because it is a real life incident and not something that I have thought up.” Shukla adds that Katrina Kaif has agreed to play Scarlett in his film. “Katrina agrees with the topic in principle.”

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Here's the big headline for style-conscious men in 2008: Buy a skinnier tie.

Yes, in the world of men's fashion, the shrinking of the tie from a 3 3/4 -inch width to about 3 1/4 inches counts as monumental news.

That would never do in women's fashion, where changes can be measured in volumes - say from sleek to swinging - in the course of a season or two. Menswear, though, moves at a much slower pace. Five years is the norm, a fast-track shift could happen in three.

Ari Hoffman, CEO of Gant, says it's become an industry joke that a seemingly minute detail such as tie width or lapel style could be considered a drastic shift, but it's also true.

The attention to narrower ties and slimmer lapels comes as the industry continues to embrace dressier looks, Hoffman says.

"From our point of view, we're going through a period of change from distressed, grungier looks toward clean looks, polished looks," Hoffman says. "It's crisper - we definitely see that as an important direction."

Men's style is largely defined by the clothes they work in, unlike women who often pay the most attention to their party dresses, even if they don't wear them often, notes Tyler Thoreson, executive editor of the Conde Nast-run Web site Men.Style.Com. "There's a much narrower spectrum within which you can work in men's fashion."

You'll see the pendulum swing from dressing up to casual as every generation starts shopping for itself, Thoreson explains.

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